Factors Affecting 100% Acrylic or Latex Paint Touch-Ups
How many times has it happened having the same can of paint used a few years before, touching up same color, it does not match? Here, we will discuss the reasons that contribute to these instances, helping elevating the uncomfortable situation.
A. How Paint Appearance Can Differ
- Color: The hue of the subsequently applied paint could be lighter or darker, if not adequately re-mixed on original painting, or newer one. Both times, latex paint needs to be mixed thoroughly for at least 5 minutes.
- Sheen: Sheen or Gloss can be different from areas surrounding newer touched up areas from just being fresh-newer to older and duller painted areas. What's found to help is wetting the painting area first, lightly going over with paint.
- Mill Thickness: Touch-up can be noticeably different, depending on how much build up of paint is laying on top of older. Good way to elevate this, is to "Feather" out the area, brushing to a dry layer on all edges.
B. Variables that can Contribute to Touch-up Problems:
- Applying paint at different temperatures: Touching up at an extreme different temperature hotter or colder can see a difference once the paint has dried. Try painting during same temperatures, or close to the same.
- Using different methods of application: Several methods of original application can be used to get satisfactory results, however depending on the substrate and texture, a brush can look somewhat different than a previously sprayed application. This happens generally on smooth surfaces such as exterior doors, and schedule 5 drywall surfaces which are slick smooth walls. Way to help, is spray back into container the extra paint, sealing up, to use at a later time. A previously sprayed paint will look closer to the same as before, even brushed if sprayed and saved into container to re-use.
C. Tips for Avoiding Touch-up Problems:
- Apply PVA primer before drywall texture, allowing texture to go on uniform-ally and consistent in nature.
- Apply PVA primer after texture, sealing the porosity of drywall, allowing paint coating to lay evenly.
- Back-rolling is helpful after spraying, actually dunking roller into paint, and not dry rolling. This lays more paint on surface, giving a very small textured look called stipple. This allows touch-ups to be done much easier, down the road. On flat and smooth drywall, a 1/2" roller skin should be used acquiring that stipple look.
Keeping the Sheen Constant Painting New Drywall
A. Check drywall joints:
- To be floated or smoothed, and edges sanded, not having dimples, cracks, or ridges.
- Check area at low lighting and also at high at all different angles
- Last sanding should be wet sanded, giving the most smoothest finish
B. Use Appropriate Primer:
- Interior drywall should have a PVA flat primer.
- PVA spread rate is much different than finish coat, in that PVA's cover normally twice as far, around 425 sq. ft. of surface per gallon. Apply just enough to seal new drywall from finish paints coat absorption.
- A higher quality Lambs Wool Skin Cover will apply paint more evenly and heavier than an economically priced one will do.
- Keep roller strokes the same direction, as vertical as possible, keeping same pressure on roller when either rolling out or back rolling.
- Keep roller loaded with paint, not allowing to dry-roll out edges, unless your spot painting for touch-ups.
- Keep roller frame the same across the entire wall, never "Flipping" frame back and forth down the same wall when back rolling.
- Rolling out final coat or back rolling will provide surface uniformity, especially on a flat smooth Schedule 5 drywall finish, leaving a paint stipple.
- Dry time is important painting multiple coats, when a deep tint base paint is being used. Generally this time is about 2 hours at 70 degrees, so paint does not blister with added coat.